I will redo the excel sheet that shows the time differences between the cars and we may be able to add a couple tracks in. The big reason was for the huge time differences between the cars.
The TBO's are not really meant to be driven on huge tracks, they are meant for shorter tracks which keep the action tight.
This will be a great opportunity for some UK LFSers to show their stuff and get noticed. You will have a 'leg up' on most of the competitors heading into the first races, use that to your advantage and show how LFS is supposed to be run! The CTRA SS crowd, we are counting on you to help with giving all the new drivers to LFS a standard to shoot towards, one that is full of professionalism and respect for fellow racers that is seen on a day to day basis across most every LFS server.
Just because your not from the UK does not mean you should not participate either! I think this is going to bring everyone 'out of the woodwork' and you are going to find some of the best single seater action to be had in online while racing on the V1 servers and watching the online coverage for the V1.
Could I be cheeky and ask anyone and everyone to throw around this quote to their buddies please?
PS could you post this link with that quote as well please =)
Cmon people 500 messages honestly not enough? It's more than any other forum I have seen, take an hour and give it some maintenance, you don't need 500 PM's that cannot be saved locally on your HHD...
I would like to point out that we recommend that all reports being submitted have their replay reviewed and verified correct before submitting a report. It will be returned if the replay is wrong, and we don't keep replays for very long, so if they are not attached to a report after a week or so you might not be able to find the correct replay and will have problems completing the report
I have been using syth now for over 2 years in my car. I understand some of the basic basics but I am a bit lost when it comes to polyalphaolefin, (PAO) (class IV) and Ester (class V) based products. What is the difference, what does it mean for the engine if I use an ester based or polyalphaolefin based synthetic?
Here is an oil guide for people to look at who don't understand my questions.
It's been a while since I have seen a report like that.
Sorry, siding with Sam on this one, there is no chance of being unbanned after that incident, if you would have at least used the brake, maybe, just maybe you would eventually be able to race on our servers but the fact that you turned into everyone AND kept it floored removed any chance of completing any racing that you were hoping of doing on our servers. This is exactly the type of person who we don't want on the CTRA.
In an ideal world you are correct. But with diffs and gear lube there is resistance which slows the driveline down, maybe saying driveline mass will slow it down alone was not accurate =P There is resistance in a driveline so it takes more power to overcome this loss
A FWD or RWD has 1 diff, an AWD system will have 3 so will have 3x the resistance of a FWD.
The mass itself is not the problem, it's the resistance, how much I am not sure, but it will slow the driveline down quicker =) 3x quicker =P thus you need more power to compensate.
Very true, but then an AWD system will still have a lower gas milage than the same engine in the same weight vehicle with a FWD or RWD system. How much I don't know, but it will be less which is what we are talking about, not the actual fact of high/low gas milage so if you put that engine in the AWD vehicle, and placed it in a FWD or RWD config, you will have more power and better fuel milage.
Hehe, same here, I get 30 down the highway, but if I really start getting on it it drops in the low 20's. If I am on a racetrack..meh... I went through 3/4 of a tank with 15 laps at silverstone...granted it's like 5 miles a lap, but still.
Simple physics here guys... AWD's lose up to 35% of their power in the driveline, and they are heavier. That same engine will be more efficient in a RWD vehicle and be even more efficient in a FWD vehicle because of the weight savings in both the spinning mass in the drivelines and the mass to hold that spinning mass in place to get that power to the wheels. AWD's use more fuel per mile than any other vehicle if you used the same chassis/engine and simply made the car either RWD or AWD and removed the excess driveline. Because of the loss of driveline mass you have more power to push yourself forward and less power to counteract the willingness of the driveline to want to stay stationary.
If you have a 200HP engine with AWD it will consume up to 70HP in just the drivelines leaving you with 130 to propel forward. In a RWD 50HP is lost giving you 150 to play with and with FWD you lose 30HP giving you 170 to put to the ground whjich is 50HP MORE power to the ground than an AWD vehicle for the same engine. This is not static however and the faster you go the more power is needed to counteract the mass in the driveline which makes AWD's consume much more fuel at speed than a FWD vehicle.
Now couple this in with the weight savings you will need less power to maintain any given speed with a FWD because the car is now lighter with the same amount of HP. So you get more power to the ground AND better fuel economy no questions about it.
That being said there are things that improve gas millage to make the efficiency through ECU mapping and proper tuning, but this tuning can be done on other vehilces too and AWD's will always be on the bottom end of the spectrum to RWD or FWD cars for fuel economy, they will always eat more fuel than a RWD or FWD car with the same engine and even the same weight for the above stated reasons.